10 MILLION KIP?!?!

so i think we left off in that we were headed northeast and making our way into laos, which we have accomplished. it took an interesting series of events to get us here. we took an overnight train ride, which was quite comfortable and pleasant. again, the workers at the train station and on the train were very kind in making sure we found our way onto the correct train and then exited at the correct station, which was wonderful at 6 am when we were groggy and not quite sure of our own names. a day or so later we got on a bus, to another bus, to tuk tuk, to a bus, to the border, to another bus, across the friendship bridge, onto another taxi.. well, something to that effect, anyway. i honestly can't quite remember it all.

but eventually, we made it into the capital city of laos, vientiane. this seems to be a mecca for backpackers- we are everywhere and we've seen quite the range in ages and companions. there are heaps of families, it seems, and older couples, and then you have the younger couples and then there are kelton and me, bouncing around meeting new people all along the way.

over the weekend the town seemed to go into a deep sleep.. a coma, almost.. which was surprising but at the same time seemed rather fitting. this isn't a capital city like you might imagine.. there are no high rises, or even 7-11's which we've become so familiar with.. everything moves at a slower pace here. the city has a large french influence which has been really refreshing because it means a change in cuisine, language and wine! we've been enjoying croissants and REAL coffee, and have been able to take a small break away from asian noodles and rice. also, because of the french influence we have run across multiple locations that sell wine at reasonable prices, including a large selection of chilean wine, which makes me very happy. i think we're going to invest some kip and treat ourselves to delicious red wine for christmas.. and let's be honest, possibly before christmas as well.

and KIPS.. oh kips are a funny thing. the currency here runs on thousands.. so one night's stay the first night cost 150,000 kip. the number is just outrageous to us and we're both still trying to grasp the concept. i used the ATM the night we arrived and after some intense dialogue as to the conversion of dollars to kip, i took out 1 million kip... and as the ATM machine sorted out the bills.. and i heard them being collected on the other side.. i had a nervous feeling that ran through my body. i looked over at kelton.. with quite possibly a look of a deer caught in headlight.. and when the little door opened, and a stack of bills as thick as my forearm popped out... kelton looks at me.. and says.. i think you might have just taken out a thousand dollars.

i did not, in fact.. take out a thousand dollars but something much more reasonable.. but as i said.. we're still figuring it out. paying a couple hundred thousand kips for dinner doesn't seem quite as blasphemous.. though i can't say i'm totally sure when i count out bills that i'm actually handing over the right amount. luckily, the laos people have been kind and honest with me, handing back tens of thousands of kip that i have overpaid.

it's easy to forget the harsh reality of the world here when you're enjoying your croissants and coffee.. but it is there non the less. it seems like every five steps there is a hostel, or a hotel, or an internet cafe.. all obviously focused on the drive of tourism. but it makes you wonder.. how much of it is sustainable, if any.. and if they are all in such competition that they drive each other out of business.. then how is it really developing a lasting economy?

travelling by bus and train has really given us a glimpse into the outside world of the towns and cities that we spend our nights in, where people live on things other than tourists attractions. it's been really interesting to be able to see more of the countryside.. and i think we've both become a big fan of this way of travelling.

i feel that there is so much more to see and understand, and that if i could have a little guide on my shoulder along the way to really explain what i'm seeing i would be very grateful.. but all i have is myself, and fortunately kelton, with whom i can bounce ideas off of, and question what we see.. and also enjoy it for what it is.. as simple travelers who have a thirst for seeing the world.

i think we're going to take an aerobics class that they conduct outside, by the river, at around 7 pm, for if nothing else.. a good laugh.

we'll let you know how it goes. that's all i've got in me today. til next time. chao.