Give it to me straight folks...how did I look. Well, Christmas has come and gone, and it will be forever remembered for the glorious good times. Tati and I have made some excellent friends, three Aussies, and have spent the last week travelling around with them...and by travelling I mean tubing, biking, and DRINKING. Well, we are bruised and battered from our adventures on the river. One camera broken and the other offered to the river gods as payment for the amazing day, we will unfortunately be unable to show pictures for a the time being.
Tati and I have learned several interesting things about ourselves in the past week...1) we are no good at being thieves 2) we do an exquisite double off the flying fox(one of many zip line swing thingys on the river that as you are flying down the zip line, you run into the springs at the end and flip through the air) 3) we find ourselves way too amusing for our own good. I tell you, I've mentioned it several times before, but the laughter during this trip is non-stop. If for no other reason than laughing, this trip is more than worth it. Perhaps this is why people travel, you don't have to try, and all of a sudden things are unbearably hilarious.
We spent Christmas eve spoiling ourselves...first shopping in the morning market in Vientiane, then a sumptuous doughnut, then 2 hours of massages, then a fine French dinner of steak and lamb chop...followed by meeting even more new friends (the people at the table next to us...reached over in middle of our meal, grabbed a prawn off our friend Sanjit's plate and proceeded to peel it for him...I bet that never happened while dining in the states) AND then Tati and I got back to the hostel and wrote "the 12 days of Christmas Laos style." Not sure if it was the wine or the company, maybe the day of pampering...but our creative juices flowing we composed and preformed our Christmas song. We were hoping to show all you viewers our ridiculous shenanigans, but fate has stepped in and saved face...for the mean time. Well, you are all in our thoughts and hearts this holidays season. We're out for tubing in the morrow...new years eve is supposed to be incredible on the river. We send our love and will find a way to make new pictures and share them. Signing off...10-4 good buddy, this is ghostwriter over and out.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
Monday, December 22, 2008
10 MILLION KIP?!?!
so i think we left off in that we were headed northeast and making our way into laos, which we have accomplished. it took an interesting series of events to get us here. we took an overnight train ride, which was quite comfortable and pleasant. again, the workers at the train station and on the train were very kind in making sure we found our way onto the correct train and then exited at the correct station, which was wonderful at 6 am when we were groggy and not quite sure of our own names. a day or so later we got on a bus, to another bus, to tuk tuk, to a bus, to the border, to another bus, across the friendship bridge, onto another taxi.. well, something to that effect, anyway. i honestly can't quite remember it all.
but eventually, we made it into the capital city of laos, vientiane. this seems to be a mecca for backpackers- we are everywhere and we've seen quite the range in ages and companions. there are heaps of families, it seems, and older couples, and then you have the younger couples and then there are kelton and me, bouncing around meeting new people all along the way.
over the weekend the town seemed to go into a deep sleep.. a coma, almost.. which was surprising but at the same time seemed rather fitting. this isn't a capital city like you might imagine.. there are no high rises, or even 7-11's which we've become so familiar with.. everything moves at a slower pace here. the city has a large french influence which has been really refreshing because it means a change in cuisine, language and wine! we've been enjoying croissants and REAL coffee, and have been able to take a small break away from asian noodles and rice. also, because of the french influence we have run across multiple locations that sell wine at reasonable prices, including a large selection of chilean wine, which makes me very happy. i think we're going to invest some kip and treat ourselves to delicious red wine for christmas.. and let's be honest, possibly before christmas as well.
and KIPS.. oh kips are a funny thing. the currency here runs on thousands.. so one night's stay the first night cost 150,000 kip. the number is just outrageous to us and we're both still trying to grasp the concept. i used the ATM the night we arrived and after some intense dialogue as to the conversion of dollars to kip, i took out 1 million kip... and as the ATM machine sorted out the bills.. and i heard them being collected on the other side.. i had a nervous feeling that ran through my body. i looked over at kelton.. with quite possibly a look of a deer caught in headlight.. and when the little door opened, and a stack of bills as thick as my forearm popped out... kelton looks at me.. and says.. i think you might have just taken out a thousand dollars.
i did not, in fact.. take out a thousand dollars but something much more reasonable.. but as i said.. we're still figuring it out. paying a couple hundred thousand kips for dinner doesn't seem quite as blasphemous.. though i can't say i'm totally sure when i count out bills that i'm actually handing over the right amount. luckily, the laos people have been kind and honest with me, handing back tens of thousands of kip that i have overpaid.
it's easy to forget the harsh reality of the world here when you're enjoying your croissants and coffee.. but it is there non the less. it seems like every five steps there is a hostel, or a hotel, or an internet cafe.. all obviously focused on the drive of tourism. but it makes you wonder.. how much of it is sustainable, if any.. and if they are all in such competition that they drive each other out of business.. then how is it really developing a lasting economy?
travelling by bus and train has really given us a glimpse into the outside world of the towns and cities that we spend our nights in, where people live on things other than tourists attractions. it's been really interesting to be able to see more of the countryside.. and i think we've both become a big fan of this way of travelling.
i feel that there is so much more to see and understand, and that if i could have a little guide on my shoulder along the way to really explain what i'm seeing i would be very grateful.. but all i have is myself, and fortunately kelton, with whom i can bounce ideas off of, and question what we see.. and also enjoy it for what it is.. as simple travelers who have a thirst for seeing the world.
i think we're going to take an aerobics class that they conduct outside, by the river, at around 7 pm, for if nothing else.. a good laugh.
we'll let you know how it goes. that's all i've got in me today. til next time. chao.
but eventually, we made it into the capital city of laos, vientiane. this seems to be a mecca for backpackers- we are everywhere and we've seen quite the range in ages and companions. there are heaps of families, it seems, and older couples, and then you have the younger couples and then there are kelton and me, bouncing around meeting new people all along the way.
over the weekend the town seemed to go into a deep sleep.. a coma, almost.. which was surprising but at the same time seemed rather fitting. this isn't a capital city like you might imagine.. there are no high rises, or even 7-11's which we've become so familiar with.. everything moves at a slower pace here. the city has a large french influence which has been really refreshing because it means a change in cuisine, language and wine! we've been enjoying croissants and REAL coffee, and have been able to take a small break away from asian noodles and rice. also, because of the french influence we have run across multiple locations that sell wine at reasonable prices, including a large selection of chilean wine, which makes me very happy. i think we're going to invest some kip and treat ourselves to delicious red wine for christmas.. and let's be honest, possibly before christmas as well.
and KIPS.. oh kips are a funny thing. the currency here runs on thousands.. so one night's stay the first night cost 150,000 kip. the number is just outrageous to us and we're both still trying to grasp the concept. i used the ATM the night we arrived and after some intense dialogue as to the conversion of dollars to kip, i took out 1 million kip... and as the ATM machine sorted out the bills.. and i heard them being collected on the other side.. i had a nervous feeling that ran through my body. i looked over at kelton.. with quite possibly a look of a deer caught in headlight.. and when the little door opened, and a stack of bills as thick as my forearm popped out... kelton looks at me.. and says.. i think you might have just taken out a thousand dollars.
i did not, in fact.. take out a thousand dollars but something much more reasonable.. but as i said.. we're still figuring it out. paying a couple hundred thousand kips for dinner doesn't seem quite as blasphemous.. though i can't say i'm totally sure when i count out bills that i'm actually handing over the right amount. luckily, the laos people have been kind and honest with me, handing back tens of thousands of kip that i have overpaid.
it's easy to forget the harsh reality of the world here when you're enjoying your croissants and coffee.. but it is there non the less. it seems like every five steps there is a hostel, or a hotel, or an internet cafe.. all obviously focused on the drive of tourism. but it makes you wonder.. how much of it is sustainable, if any.. and if they are all in such competition that they drive each other out of business.. then how is it really developing a lasting economy?
travelling by bus and train has really given us a glimpse into the outside world of the towns and cities that we spend our nights in, where people live on things other than tourists attractions. it's been really interesting to be able to see more of the countryside.. and i think we've both become a big fan of this way of travelling.
i feel that there is so much more to see and understand, and that if i could have a little guide on my shoulder along the way to really explain what i'm seeing i would be very grateful.. but all i have is myself, and fortunately kelton, with whom i can bounce ideas off of, and question what we see.. and also enjoy it for what it is.. as simple travelers who have a thirst for seeing the world.
i think we're going to take an aerobics class that they conduct outside, by the river, at around 7 pm, for if nothing else.. a good laugh.
we'll let you know how it goes. that's all i've got in me today. til next time. chao.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
shenanigans on a shoestring....
we're alive!!
we have finally dragged ourselves away from the beautiful thai beaches and made our way up north to a place called ayutthaya. it's the old thai capital, and we spent the day today exploring it's temples and ruins.. and a very interesting outdoor market. it had all sorts of beautiful wooden furniture, pretty, shiny things.. and LOADS of food. they tend to pile raw meat up like little volcanoes and we're talking chicken, beef.. seafood. needless to say, it was fun to see but we didn't ingest any of it.
we're going to be here for another day/day and a half and then go northeast a bit to a place called khon kaen which is known for it's silk and silver work, then cross the border to laos. our 30 day thai visas expire on dec 22, so looks like we'll be spending christmas in laos, spend a few weeks there, then come back to thailand. it's strange how it doesn't really feel like the holiday season at all, which i can't say is really a bad thing. if i were to think about it too often or with too much nostalgia, i think it would just bring me down when there's really no need. we've having a marvelous time and i'm excited to be able to share the holidays with kelton in our own little world.
there have been several people the last day or two that have been so much nicer than they have to be to us, which gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling. the train ticket checkers (there were about 6 of them) made absolutely sure that we didn't miss our stop and i really am so grateful for that. this lady on the street watering her plants today saw us taking pictures of her flowers, and without barely speaking english, pointed us to the most beautiful smelling flower she had. the dogs... however, are a different story. we have found that the beach dogs are quite relaxed and pretty hilarious, in fact. chasing little crabs out of their homes in the sand and generally lounging on the beach like the rest of us.
the city dogs, though... well. this morning we walked from one hostel to another, huge backpacks on our backs and little ones in the front. there wasn't a lot of room for negotiating a quick getaway. as much as i adore dogs, i know better than to pet just any old hairy thing that comes up to me... so today when were walking, passing dogs left and right, i thought nothing of it. until... until we pass this black dog, (kelton, walking in front of me says she saw a crazy look in his eyes, i must've missed it) as i walk past it, it growls a bit, and then his next move was to bite directly into my thigh just under my left buttcheek. i was stunned. i took a few quick steps forward, and he lunged for my right thigh!! i began to take off my little backpack to swing it at him because the first thought that came to my head was.. i didn't get my rabbies shot! luckily, he backed off... i guess he knew what was coming. (or he had his fill of my meat and moved on). so, i was left with a couple of wounds, directly under each cheek, and an incredibly sore ass, but i think it will heal quite quickly and unless i start foaming at the mouth in the next couple of days, i think i will survive my first ever dog attack. insane.
kelton has suffered a couple of foot injuries herself, and not to mention paralyzing nauseousness on a very long catamaran ride through insanely rough waters. but all in all... we remain safe and happy. enjoy the pictures! (finally, something other than us.. in bathing suits. we wear clothes, i swear)


we have finally dragged ourselves away from the beautiful thai beaches and made our way up north to a place called ayutthaya. it's the old thai capital, and we spent the day today exploring it's temples and ruins.. and a very interesting outdoor market. it had all sorts of beautiful wooden furniture, pretty, shiny things.. and LOADS of food. they tend to pile raw meat up like little volcanoes and we're talking chicken, beef.. seafood. needless to say, it was fun to see but we didn't ingest any of it.
we're going to be here for another day/day and a half and then go northeast a bit to a place called khon kaen which is known for it's silk and silver work, then cross the border to laos. our 30 day thai visas expire on dec 22, so looks like we'll be spending christmas in laos, spend a few weeks there, then come back to thailand. it's strange how it doesn't really feel like the holiday season at all, which i can't say is really a bad thing. if i were to think about it too often or with too much nostalgia, i think it would just bring me down when there's really no need. we've having a marvelous time and i'm excited to be able to share the holidays with kelton in our own little world.
there have been several people the last day or two that have been so much nicer than they have to be to us, which gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling. the train ticket checkers (there were about 6 of them) made absolutely sure that we didn't miss our stop and i really am so grateful for that. this lady on the street watering her plants today saw us taking pictures of her flowers, and without barely speaking english, pointed us to the most beautiful smelling flower she had. the dogs... however, are a different story. we have found that the beach dogs are quite relaxed and pretty hilarious, in fact. chasing little crabs out of their homes in the sand and generally lounging on the beach like the rest of us.
the city dogs, though... well. this morning we walked from one hostel to another, huge backpacks on our backs and little ones in the front. there wasn't a lot of room for negotiating a quick getaway. as much as i adore dogs, i know better than to pet just any old hairy thing that comes up to me... so today when were walking, passing dogs left and right, i thought nothing of it. until... until we pass this black dog, (kelton, walking in front of me says she saw a crazy look in his eyes, i must've missed it) as i walk past it, it growls a bit, and then his next move was to bite directly into my thigh just under my left buttcheek. i was stunned. i took a few quick steps forward, and he lunged for my right thigh!! i began to take off my little backpack to swing it at him because the first thought that came to my head was.. i didn't get my rabbies shot! luckily, he backed off... i guess he knew what was coming. (or he had his fill of my meat and moved on). so, i was left with a couple of wounds, directly under each cheek, and an incredibly sore ass, but i think it will heal quite quickly and unless i start foaming at the mouth in the next couple of days, i think i will survive my first ever dog attack. insane.
kelton has suffered a couple of foot injuries herself, and not to mention paralyzing nauseousness on a very long catamaran ride through insanely rough waters. but all in all... we remain safe and happy. enjoy the pictures! (finally, something other than us.. in bathing suits. we wear clothes, i swear)
Saturday, December 13, 2008
What happend last night...didn't we say something clever???
Word on the street...the two of us chickens have been partying like rock stars with the youngsters of southeast asia. We attended the Full Moon Party last night(and this morning) on Koh Phan Ngan. The island is stunning and the amount of partying that happened on its shores is a thing of legend. People from all over the world congregating under the glistening moon...howling, dancing, laughing what have you. Tati and I danced our pants off(not literally) and had a most memorable evening. Buckets make you think you are a bit invincible.
A word on buckets...for those of you who don't know, buckets are a native Thailand concoction/beverage that consists of Thai rice whiskey your choice of juice or soda and a healthy serving of thai red bull. They serve them in buckets...like what you would build a sand castle with...and give you a handful of straws to share the insanity with friends. They have altered our worlds on a few nights...but I think that we handle them with class. The bucket will get you...watch out.
Yet again we have been surrounded with amazing people from all over the world. Fire throwers...music so loud it has rearranged our heart beats...and the beaches...oh the beaches. We are official beach bums...we even impress fellow travellers with the amount of time we spend slothing around on these pristine shores. We are getting a healthy dose before we jet into Laos and are forced to play on rivers instead of the ocean.
We are in good health, laughing constantly, and exploring the nooks and crannies of this beautiful place. We miss christmas trees, our friends and family, and american toilets. More to come in the near future.
A word on buckets...for those of you who don't know, buckets are a native Thailand concoction/beverage that consists of Thai rice whiskey your choice of juice or soda and a healthy serving of thai red bull. They serve them in buckets...like what you would build a sand castle with...and give you a handful of straws to share the insanity with friends. They have altered our worlds on a few nights...but I think that we handle them with class. The bucket will get you...watch out.
Yet again we have been surrounded with amazing people from all over the world. Fire throwers...music so loud it has rearranged our heart beats...and the beaches...oh the beaches. We are official beach bums...we even impress fellow travellers with the amount of time we spend slothing around on these pristine shores. We are getting a healthy dose before we jet into Laos and are forced to play on rivers instead of the ocean.
We are in good health, laughing constantly, and exploring the nooks and crannies of this beautiful place. We miss christmas trees, our friends and family, and american toilets. More to come in the near future.
Monday, December 8, 2008
socks on the beach?!
Friday, December 5, 2008
I'm gonna need you to give me a report on the situational condition
So...we finally made it away from Krabi...and not a second too soon! Well, it was just the perfect amount of time to spend there...I feel like I have everything and nothing to say all at the same time. Our days have begun to merge together, and there is no real concept of time left in either of us...mission accomplished.
After all the "strenuous" activity of Krabi town; rock climbing, hiking, snorkeling, laying on the beach, and one hellacious bus ride to a bus ride to a ferry ride we finally landed in Ko Samui. As a reward for all our "hard work," we treated ourselves to a beach front thatch bungalow and some massages. Paradise has been found...you think that's sweet...well, were we treated to a fancy dinner last night free of charge to top it all off.
I think that happiness would be the theme of our trip so far. Everyday offers its stories and memories and we are only 2 weeks in. Hard to imagine the greatness that will exist following the next five months. To all our faithful readers, we would like to say we love you.
Hope you enjoy the pictures as much as we have enjoyed creating them...its tuff work, but somebody has to do it.
At Hookah bar beach front watching the local Thai's release floating lamps(hot air balloon style) into the starry night sky
Genius
Lamai Beach of Ko Samui...and our front door step
Our hung-over bus ride from Krabi to who knows where...ouch
Sweaty half way through the descent down a poop load of stairs
Monkey Thief...stole our precious agua...we nearly perished
Monkey Bay of Phi Phi Island...Speedboat tour
Maya Bay where The Beach was filmed
Maya Bay
just another day in paradise...............
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